PCT – backpacking over the hill

Hello California

Day 41. August 6

It was a pretty view in the morning. I was up high. There was a ceiling of clouds just above me. Low clouds skittered around the hills below.

Remaining clouds burning off in the morning sun.

It was a great day of hiking, mostly slight ups and downs along ridges. In the late morning I came up to a wonderful water source: a spring that had been tapped with a pipe.

A trio of ladies came to the spring as I was filling up. They were retired and had been doing PCT section hikes for years. All at least in their 60s, they were boisterous and energetic and brightened my day.

I was just walking along later in the day when I heard some people getting out of cars and preparing to go on a day hike. I said “Hi” and kept walking. Their energetic Labrador kept running to me and then back to them. I was surprised to stumble on the trail marker noting the state line between Oregon and California. I tried taking some selfies and the day hikers were nice enough to snap a photo. Dutifully I wrote my name in the trail register and continued on, feeling a lot better knowing I had walked from the northern border of Oregon to its southern border.

Water was just a little scarce. I filled at a creek where cattle grazed (not the best) and late in the day settled for a stagnant pond. However, there were some very interesting rocks. They had multiple thin layers. Some of them reminded me of how croissants are made…with layer upon layer of thin dough.

Layered like croissants but much tougher to chew….

More puzzling was a strange toilet fixture. I had encountered variations of these a few times before on backpacking trips and puzzled on their purpose. They are usually a toilet seat on a wood frame about 12 to 18 inches high. Being a man who cannot rest unless I am able to unravel the mysteries of the universe, I had found that hunters make these and keep them near their hunting camps. In season, they dig a good size hole, place the fixture on top, and then have a functional, open air toilet for several days. At first, I wondered why they left them in the woods. However, when I considered the alternative of explaining to your spouse why you brought it home and your plan to keep it in the garage, the wisdom of just leaving it in the woods made tremendous sense. Sadly, I was dumb enough to go lift the lid. Even more sadly, some people had actually used the fixture and left their product just sitting there.

As the sun set, I had some sub-optimal tent-site choices. I ended up setting my tent within five feet of the trail. I always think this looks like a rookie move and didn’t like doing it. However, it was getting late and I knew I wanted to get up early and get going so I could drop down to my next resupply town, the Seiad Valley. My tent barely fit into the spot. I was surprised the temperature was falling so quickly and put on my down puffy and hat. I ended up sleeping in them, too, after setting my alarm for 4:00 am. With no wind, I was certain that if any animal walked along the trail at night that close to my tent, I would have some form of a coronary event.

Shasta sometimes seemed to just float in the distance.

Shasta Sighting

Day 40. August 5.

It was going to be a hot day. I had some elevation gain. And, I was once again leaving town with too much food in my backpack.

The day started off with a good climb, heading up to Mount Ashland. I passed a young couple that planned to hike from Ashland to Lake Tahoe. It sounded like a pretty good hike.

I came across a strange snake. It looked like a worm and disappeared into the ground.

Later, I caught a glimpse of Mount Shasta, a huge mountain in California. The trail was pretty. It went through a few meadows near Mount Ashland with some cold spring-fed streams and plenty of flowers, including an orange variety that was new to me.

It was nice to see honey bees in large numbers; back home, I live in a suburb and rarely see honey bees. Also, there was a large white structure that looked like a golf ball on top of the mountain. This made it easy to identify the mountain to gauge distance traveled as the day wore on.

Odd white structure on top of Mt. Ashland

Approaching sunset, as thunderheads slowly built up, I put in my ear buds and listened to an audio book. I was a little startled when a black, furry VW Beetle ran down the hill 50 feet in front of me. I quickly realized it was actually a large black bear I had scared. It was amazing how fast it could run. There are often warnings to not run from a bear. I can see why.

Understandably, I stopped the audio book and became much more focused on my surroundings. Sure enough, about 15 minutes later I heard some wood crunching up hill from the trail. I looked up to see a furry black head. I tried to get a video of the bear as it methodically tore apart a downed log, eating the grubs or ants inside.

Before finding a campsite, I gathered some water. I met a north bounder, warned him about the bear, and shared the usual trail gossip (when did you start? favorite section? best town stop?) I sent a satellite text to Helen asking about forecast lightning activity in my area. I could hear the thunder from what seemed like cloud-to-cloud lightning. She replied that it looked like I would just miss it.

I camped at a sharp bend in the trail. Having seen the two bears, I was very diligent about hanging my food high and 200 feet away. Also, I hung my backpack high and away as well.

There were a few ominous wind gusts, but they only brought cool temperatures. The storms missed me and the night was quiet and uneventful. Just what I needed.

A Zero Day at Callahan’s

Day 40. August 4.

I was able to sleep in just a little at the Timbers Motel in downtown Ashland. I drew up my grocery list and also had a plan to hit a local laundromat when it opened at 7.

The laundromat was just a couple blocks away. I walked there and the doors were open. An older guy was in his idling car outside. I need to first clarify that I have perhaps the worst luck ever at laundromats. Something goes wrong every time. So, when the change machine accurately gave me change for my five dollars, I was getting a little smug. Next, to the soap dispensing machine. It looked old and solid, perhaps using metal from decommissioned WWII aircraft. Coins go in, selection made, pull the lever, and nothing. “Here we go….” I muttered to myself as I found the coin return. I was surprised it worked! As a spokesman for the triumph of hope over experience, I tried about 13 times to get the machine to perform the simple transaction: I put in correct coins, it gives me soap. Alas, nothing.

I figured at least getting the dirt loosened would be a small victory. So I ran a load of wash without soap. I considered the downside: without soap, perhaps all I would accomplish would be to loosen dirt and sweat and evenly distribute it over all my clothes so my shirts would smell like my feet and my socks would smell like my arm pit. Sounded good to me. Hell, I still smelled like lavender epsom salt.

An hour later, as I finished folding my clothes from the dryer, the assistant manager walked in. I thought I would be a good citizen and let her know the soap dispenser did not work. Deftly demonstrating how she reached the level of assistant manager by age 32, she said “I have some behind the counter I can sell you.” For a fleeting moment I considered that sprinkling the dry powder on my laundered clothes might have some potential benefit, but I decided against it, thanked her for her problem-solving skills, and went to the grocery store.

I stocked up on the crap that backpackers buy in town: cheese, meat sticks, Fritos, sunflower seeds, and two breakfast burritos. I went back to the motel, ate, packed up and caught a cab back to Callahan’s Lodge.

It was an old lodge. Lodges used to be destinations. Rustic with wood accents, dead animals mounted on walls, rooms and food and alcohol. Historically, Callahan’s was on the outskirts of Ashland and a destination. The original Callahans were instrumental to getting the entire Pacific Crest Trail built. However, it apparently burned down, was rebuilt and sold and was now for sale again. Lodges were fading anyways and the covid pandemic was not helping.

My stay was not the best. At first, the guy at the front desk said my resupply package was not there. He was rushed, so I asked him to please double check when things slowed down. He also informed me that I did not have a reservation. I explained that I thought I did. After several minutes of intense research on his part, he announced that he had solved the mystery and that my reservation was for tomorrow. I tried to gently correct him and explain that was the original plan, but it was changed and that “Cheryl” had spoken with my wife and assured her the reservation was moved to today. He ignored all of that and magnanimously informed me that the room type I reserved for tomorrow was actually available today so I could check in. Since we were bonding, I seized the moment and asked him if I could go to the room where they keep resupply packages and help him look for my package. He hesitated as though I was asking to get into the cash box, but eventually he relented. I found the box in about 31 seconds.

Retreating to the deck for a late lunch, I tried to enjoy the peace and solitude of being given a menu and allowed to read it uninterrupted for 20 minutes. When a perceptive server decided to ask if I wanted to order lunch, I praised her deductive skills and placed an order. After another 20 minutes I was enjoying my burger and chewing the ice which was all the beverage I was going to get. After another brisk 20 minute interlude, I was giving my bill and released. For a moment, my instincts suggested that maybe I should just hold my spot and start ordering dinner.

Later on, I regretted not trustung my instincts. While many people were dining on the patio and trying to handle yellow jackets in various ways (fight versus flee) I sat inside. After 20 minutes, the bartender came across the indoor area and asked me if I was planning on having dinner. I said that I was actually waiting for my connecting flight to London. Eventually everything was sorted out and perhaps trying to atone for any inconvenience, all components of my meal (appetizer, salad, and entree) were all delivered at the same time.

Not sure what will come of Callahan’s. It is great that it is so close to the trail, but with a short cab ride whisking hikers to a greater variety of places, I am not sure it will last long.

Challenges

Hello reader. Someday, hopefully, readers.

Just an explanation. I am actually in Truckee California today about to get back on the trail. I had to skip about a 90 mile section due to fire closures. My blog, unfortunately, still has me in the middle of Oregon in July.

Why? Well, I have three devices that use energy. My smartphone, I believe it is a Samsung 1. This serves as a blog writing tool, camera, and map. I also have a satellite device over which I can transmit text without cell phone service, it tracks me, and, finally, has an SOS function if needed. Lastly, I have an MP3 player on which I have some audio books and which I can sometimes use to pick up random radio stations.

All require electricity, but my battery power has been limited. I can go four days easily. Five days and I have to be careful. Six days, and I have to shut off devices. In my view, the priority is the satellite device (SOS and ability to always text), next is the phone (map & route finding, but no photos), and I don’t use the MP3.

So, besides being wiped out when I reach camp at night, I have had to be parsimonious writing blog entries.

And don’t get me started on WordPress changing their application mid-trip! Now, I have to submit entries via email and can only attach photos at the end without a description.

The good news is that Helen sent me a much more powerful battery. Now, I plan to catch up on blog entries and try to stay current.

Also, I have enabled a link to my Instagram account. It should appear on the right hand side. You can click on the photos and hopefully see the banter I sometimes attach. That tends to be a fairly current snapshot.

I apologize for the gaps. I should catch up and make this feel like timely rather than an old man reminiscing about days gone by. I appreciate your patience.