Tag: Pacific Northwest Trail

Stoney Indian Pass

June 28, 2018

(Apologies but my blog vendor, WordPress, has deployed a brilliant business strategy of preventing customers from loading photos remotely. I’ll try to keep Instagram updated with photos. )

The wind at Coseley Lake died down during the night, offering a gorgeous mountain-reflected-in-the-lake view.

We broke camp and started what we knew was going to be a tough day: about 2,200 feet over Stoney Indian Pass.

At first, the trail climbed gently with a lush understory. The weather turned a little overcast, but that actually makes for good hiking. We ran in to a trail crew that had been doing trail maintenance. This was welcome news. Over winter, trees get blown down or avalanches and landslides knock trees across the trail. They are a pain to get around. Thus, we were fortunate to have them clear our way.

We started gaining elevation and encountering waterfalls. Above one we could look down and across the stream and see a huge reddish brown grizzly grazing.

At a higher level, we climbed into a bowl shaped area that had twin waterfalls feeding a crystalline pond.

Climbing still further, the temperature dropped and blotches of snow appeared. We climbed past still another waterfall and just above it we had to cross the ice fed stream. I hike in mesh trail runners and keep them on for stream crossings. Plus, I use a hiking pole to cross facing upstream so I am basically moving a triangle across. I sure as hell don’t link arms. Ingrid wanted to keep her boots and shoes dry and cross barefoot. Reluctantly, I let her do that. I remembeted that Q-tip did that on the CDT. Knowing that in such cold water your feet hurt after 7 seconds and start numbing after 10, I crossed right behind her, downstream. There were definitely some nervous Dad moments as I watched her struggle the last few feet as her feet (and mine) grew numb and had trouble finding the next step with the waterfall only about 20 feet downstream.

We were now entering areas where the snow fields covered almost one third of the trail. It started drizzling and we donned rain gear. Finally, after a rigorous set of switchbacks and a good sized snow field, we reached Stoney Indian Pass.

The views were amazing. As the clouds thickened, they began enveloping the uppermost peaks. The rest of what was visible was gray stone with snow accents. Several hundred feet down from us was Stoney Indian Lake. Clear parts were blue, but a portion was covered with ice and obvious avalanche debris. This was going to be a steep descent on a north-facing wall. Rhonda and David had given us some tobacco and explained a humble ceremony which Ingrid and I performed.

As we started going down, I insisted Ingrid take my ice axe. I broke out my hiking poles. At the top, almost the entire trail was under a steep snow bank. We could barely discern the trail, cobbling together melted snippets and the vague footprints of a couple people who went before us a day or so earlier.

More unnerving than the waterfall, I was seriously concerned about Ingrid slipping and sliding down hill into a tree or rock. So, we eventually came up with a plan to bushwhack our way through the areas barren of snow and intercept the trail further down. After a nerve wracking hour, we eventually found a flatter portion of the trail. About 50 feet before reaching the lake, we did our best shoe skiing down the last slope which was fun and a release from the tension.

After the lake, we crashed down several hundred feet and a good six miles to Kootenai campsite. We were both tired. We opted for an early dinner. Even though campfires were permitted at this site, we both chose to just go to bed. For those of you who know I am a bit of an insomniac, seeing me go to bed by 8:30 would shock you.

Beside a lake with a gentle breeze and a thick, lush forest behind, it was no surprise I fell into a deep sleep right away. Until the sticks started breaking somewhere in the woods.

Day One

June 27, 2018

{NOTE My blog vendor, WordPress, is not allowing me to load photos remotely. I will try Instagram as a way to provide visual interest to the dry, crusty written word in my blog. Will add photos here later. Sorry.}

Yesterday, we made it to Many Glacier ranger station. We hoped to get a permit that matched the online reservation we made months ago. The challenge was that we requested a route over two passes and this was a heavy snow year. The ranger was hesitant to give us our route. However, we finally won her over with our microspikes, ice axes, and experience, plus a full-on charm offensive. I’m sure it was the microspikes.

We had to watch the bear video that also covers other hazards. The Park Service recommends that people ford rivers by linking arms and walking perpendicular to the current. Admittedly I am an amateur, but this seems absolutely daft. First, if the current is strong enough to knock one over, wouldn’t the rest fall like dominoes? Second, if my arms were linked to yours and I fell in, no matter how much I loved you, my fingernails would be two inches deep in your flesh, sealing your fate to mine.

Anyway, they gave us a permit for a route which they said was “not recommended.” I was very tempted to ask whether the ever recommended routes they did not permit.

We were able to check in to our motel early, drop our packs, and take a 10 mile hike. We took a popular out-and-back trip to Iceberg Lake. All shapes and ages and sizes were on the trail, almost all happy. Except for the parents of young kids who were stomping down the trail grumpy with grumpy kids.

As billed, Iceberg Lake had an iceberg. Also, there was that guy. You know, the one who understands that the park rules and several signs saying No Dogs applies to everyone else, not him.

The next day we were picked up by the shuttle taxi. It was very interesting to meet David and Rhonda. They live on the Blackfeet Reservation. They started the shuttle service to transport folks around the Glacier area. In addition to educating us about their culture, challenges on the Reservation, and their business. I was most impressed with how they have adopted four children in their community from parents unable to properly care due to drug or alcohol problems. I felt small next to them. They know full well that each of these kids are prone to the same problems as their birth parents, but Rhonda and David opened their hearts and home to give hope.

Around 11:00 we reached the Canadian border at Chief Mountain. We took the obligatory border photo and then started hiking.

The meadows were full of flowers and the forest was a lush green. We spent the first hour descending to the Belly River. Once there, we encountered several hikers and enjoyed the snow capped peaks. Just before we broke off the main trail we ran into the ranger who issued us our permit. She was hiking off-duty and was helping an on-duty ranger with an injured hiker. She checked our permit. Thorough.

We climbed up out of the valley and reached our destination after eight miles. It was Coseley Lake. As the park name suggests, most lakes here are long and narrow since they fill glacier carved valleys. About 150 feet across from our campsite rose a massive stone mountain. Behind behind us, another. While beautiful, the effect was a bit of a wind tunnel.

To manage bear vs backpacker issues, you must camp in designated campsites and each site has a separate food preparation and storage area. During dinner we met a young couple from Missouri on their second backpacking trip and a local, experienced mother-daughter team. It was great dinner conversation but we turned in early.

All in all, a great first day. Ingrid was a natural at finding the right route. The weather was perfect. A good start.