Glacier National Park – backpacking over the hill

Out the Other Side

June 30, 2018

We were ready on time. There is a rhythm to breaking camp in the morning. Even after just a few days, it becomes comforting. Also, I noticed the lightness from having consumed three days worth of food.

Today we would climb 900 feet through Brown Pass and then descend over 2,000 feet, ending with a six mile hike alongside Bowman Lake. I was leery of another icy pass, but it turned out to be snow free. Before dropping over, we took one last look east into Glacier.

The steep descent was made more challenging by fallen trees across the trail, a reminder of how severe the weather can get over the winter. Ingrid was a natural for choosing from a) under b) over or c) around.

Eventually, we heard chainsaws. Then, we saw the crew. They were working on a huge 3 tree collapse across the trail. I sent Ing down and around to get the chainsaw worker’s attention. Never, ever surprise someone operating a chainsaw.

I took the high route above where a massive tree’s roots had been pulled from the ground. It was about 8 feet of loose rock sharply down to the trail. I took two steps, then both my feet flew out and I landed flat on my backpack on the trail right in front of the trail crew supervisor. He complemented me on my grand entrance.

It drizzled off and on as the gray clouds clung to the mountainsides. We were making good time. In reality, I could not keep up with Ingrid. I think she felt sorry for me and every 30 minutes would stop and wait for me, ostensibly to check the map on my phone.

We had made plans to meet my Dad at the campground at the foot of Bowman Lake. That, combined with the prospect of cooked food, a shower, and a bed was exceedingly motivational. Almost exactly on time, we found him and he was happy to see his granddaughter.

After a snack, we headed first to Polebridge Mercantile for some baked goods and then on to West Glacier for dinner and a motel near the Amtrak stop.

For me, this his has been an incredible trip. Usually, I schlump along and take photos to communicate to others what I saw. However, on this trip I was able to share the experience with my daughter. I hope she enjoyed it enough that one day she will take her son or daughter to watch waterfalls and mountain lakes. Plus, being able to end the trip meeting up with my Dad, who tried to instill an appreciation of nature in me, was an extra blessing.

Stoney Indian Pass

June 28, 2018

(Apologies but my blog vendor, WordPress, has deployed a brilliant business strategy of preventing customers from loading photos remotely. I’ll try to keep Instagram updated with photos. )

The wind at Coseley Lake died down during the night, offering a gorgeous mountain-reflected-in-the-lake view.

We broke camp and started what we knew was going to be a tough day: about 2,200 feet over Stoney Indian Pass.

At first, the trail climbed gently with a lush understory. The weather turned a little overcast, but that actually makes for good hiking. We ran in to a trail crew that had been doing trail maintenance. This was welcome news. Over winter, trees get blown down or avalanches and landslides knock trees across the trail. They are a pain to get around. Thus, we were fortunate to have them clear our way.

We started gaining elevation and encountering waterfalls. Above one we could look down and across the stream and see a huge reddish brown grizzly grazing.

At a higher level, we climbed into a bowl shaped area that had twin waterfalls feeding a crystalline pond.

Climbing still further, the temperature dropped and blotches of snow appeared. We climbed past still another waterfall and just above it we had to cross the ice fed stream. I hike in mesh trail runners and keep them on for stream crossings. Plus, I use a hiking pole to cross facing upstream so I am basically moving a triangle across. I sure as hell don’t link arms. Ingrid wanted to keep her boots and shoes dry and cross barefoot. Reluctantly, I let her do that. I remembeted that Q-tip did that on the CDT. Knowing that in such cold water your feet hurt after 7 seconds and start numbing after 10, I crossed right behind her, downstream. There were definitely some nervous Dad moments as I watched her struggle the last few feet as her feet (and mine) grew numb and had trouble finding the next step with the waterfall only about 20 feet downstream.

We were now entering areas where the snow fields covered almost one third of the trail. It started drizzling and we donned rain gear. Finally, after a rigorous set of switchbacks and a good sized snow field, we reached Stoney Indian Pass.

The views were amazing. As the clouds thickened, they began enveloping the uppermost peaks. The rest of what was visible was gray stone with snow accents. Several hundred feet down from us was Stoney Indian Lake. Clear parts were blue, but a portion was covered with ice and obvious avalanche debris. This was going to be a steep descent on a north-facing wall. Rhonda and David had given us some tobacco and explained a humble ceremony which Ingrid and I performed.

As we started going down, I insisted Ingrid take my ice axe. I broke out my hiking poles. At the top, almost the entire trail was under a steep snow bank. We could barely discern the trail, cobbling together melted snippets and the vague footprints of a couple people who went before us a day or so earlier.

More unnerving than the waterfall, I was seriously concerned about Ingrid slipping and sliding down hill into a tree or rock. So, we eventually came up with a plan to bushwhack our way through the areas barren of snow and intercept the trail further down. After a nerve wracking hour, we eventually found a flatter portion of the trail. About 50 feet before reaching the lake, we did our best shoe skiing down the last slope which was fun and a release from the tension.

After the lake, we crashed down several hundred feet and a good six miles to Kootenai campsite. We were both tired. We opted for an early dinner. Even though campfires were permitted at this site, we both chose to just go to bed. For those of you who know I am a bit of an insomniac, seeing me go to bed by 8:30 would shock you.

Beside a lake with a gentle breeze and a thick, lush forest behind, it was no surprise I fell into a deep sleep right away. Until the sticks started breaking somewhere in the woods.

Day One

June 27, 2018

{NOTE My blog vendor, WordPress, is not allowing me to load photos remotely. I will try Instagram as a way to provide visual interest to the dry, crusty written word in my blog. Will add photos here later. Sorry.}

Yesterday, we made it to Many Glacier ranger station. We hoped to get a permit that matched the online reservation we made months ago. The challenge was that we requested a route over two passes and this was a heavy snow year. The ranger was hesitant to give us our route. However, we finally won her over with our microspikes, ice axes, and experience, plus a full-on charm offensive. I’m sure it was the microspikes.

We had to watch the bear video that also covers other hazards. The Park Service recommends that people ford rivers by linking arms and walking perpendicular to the current. Admittedly I am an amateur, but this seems absolutely daft. First, if the current is strong enough to knock one over, wouldn’t the rest fall like dominoes? Second, if my arms were linked to yours and I fell in, no matter how much I loved you, my fingernails would be two inches deep in your flesh, sealing your fate to mine.

Anyway, they gave us a permit for a route which they said was “not recommended.” I was very tempted to ask whether the ever recommended routes they did not permit.

We were able to check in to our motel early, drop our packs, and take a 10 mile hike. We took a popular out-and-back trip to Iceberg Lake. All shapes and ages and sizes were on the trail, almost all happy. Except for the parents of young kids who were stomping down the trail grumpy with grumpy kids.

As billed, Iceberg Lake had an iceberg. Also, there was that guy. You know, the one who understands that the park rules and several signs saying No Dogs applies to everyone else, not him.

The next day we were picked up by the shuttle taxi. It was very interesting to meet David and Rhonda. They live on the Blackfeet Reservation. They started the shuttle service to transport folks around the Glacier area. In addition to educating us about their culture, challenges on the Reservation, and their business. I was most impressed with how they have adopted four children in their community from parents unable to properly care due to drug or alcohol problems. I felt small next to them. They know full well that each of these kids are prone to the same problems as their birth parents, but Rhonda and David opened their hearts and home to give hope.

Around 11:00 we reached the Canadian border at Chief Mountain. We took the obligatory border photo and then started hiking.

The meadows were full of flowers and the forest was a lush green. We spent the first hour descending to the Belly River. Once there, we encountered several hikers and enjoyed the snow capped peaks. Just before we broke off the main trail we ran into the ranger who issued us our permit. She was hiking off-duty and was helping an on-duty ranger with an injured hiker. She checked our permit. Thorough.

We climbed up out of the valley and reached our destination after eight miles. It was Coseley Lake. As the park name suggests, most lakes here are long and narrow since they fill glacier carved valleys. About 150 feet across from our campsite rose a massive stone mountain. Behind behind us, another. While beautiful, the effect was a bit of a wind tunnel.

To manage bear vs backpacker issues, you must camp in designated campsites and each site has a separate food preparation and storage area. During dinner we met a young couple from Missouri on their second backpacking trip and a local, experienced mother-daughter team. It was great dinner conversation but we turned in early.

All in all, a great first day. Ingrid was a natural at finding the right route. The weather was perfect. A good start.

And So It Begins

June 26, 2018

So we are beginning! I am very fortunate to be hiking the Pacific Northwest Trail. Even more of a blessing is that I’m being joined at the start by my daughter, Ingrid. She is joining me for the start through Glacier National Park.

About the Pacific Northwest Trail

There are three famous National Scenic Trails. The Appalachian Trail (AT), Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), and Continental Divide Trail (CDT) make up the famous Triple Crown of long distance hiking in the US. They are approximately 2,200, 2,600, and 2,800 miles long heading in a north/south direction. While also a designated National Scenic Trail, the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT) is far less traveled and not as well known.

I was attracted to the PNT for several reasons. First it is an east west trail. A hiker going west starts in Glacier National Park and goes across northern Montana, Idaho’s panhandle, northern Washington, across Puget Sound (on a ferry…I’m not swimming across), and lastly it crosses the Olympic peninsula with a final beach walk to the westernmost point of the continental 48 states. It goes through three National Parks and covers some of the most remote mountain ranges around.

The second attraction is its distance: approximately 1,200 miles. Roughly half the distance of the Triple Crown trails, the PNT is long enough to be an immersive experience, but not so long that people forget you and your kids start referring to you by your first name instead of Dad.

Lastly, as a less traveled trail, I like the notion of an uncrowded adventure. Although the westerly direction I am taking is the most popular, I’d be surprised if there were more than 150 people doing it this year. As a frame of reference around 6,000 people hike the AT each year.

Expected Challenges

Hopefully my wife won’t read this section. She is a worrier.

There are a few challenges to this route that go beyond the regular ones I faced on the CDT.

First, this is a young, evolving route. Between fires and trail closures, the route changes. There is an “official” trail, but even the “official” maps recommend alternatives. And those alternatives can change. The challenge is not only getting lost, but finding new trails not quite as described.

Second, forest fires are a bigger risk on this trip. Southbound on the CDT I avoided most fire dangers. July and August through Idaho, Montana, and Washington is just asking to come across a forest fire. In case you are wondering what happens, the Forest Service shuts down areas likely to be in the path of a named fire. To their credit, they try to work with trail organizations like the Pacific Northwest Trail Association (PNTA) to identify alternative routes.

Third, beach hiking. I know it sounds simple but some areas of the trail are covered at high tide so I need to know my tide charts and avoid being in certain areas at the wrong time. Plus, given my propensity for falling, slick oceans rocks are a new hazard. And hiking on sand is just painfully slow.

Rewards

Foremost, backpacking with Ingrid will be great. Starting anything in Glacier is amazing. Walking through truly wild areas of the Pacific northwest will be interesting. I have read that the Pasayten Wilderness is some of the most beautiful country in the 48 states. Walking through a legitimate rain forest via the Olympic peninsula is another highlight. Plus, my Dad is planning on driving out to meet Ingrid and I when we finish our hike through Glacier.

Blog

I am an irregular blogger. Sometimes it is a lack of cell service. Honestly, there are times when I just crash at the end of the day. Not surprising to those who know me, many times I have nothing to say. So don’t expect pithy daily notes from the trail. However, I will try to provide reasonable updates to my loyal blog readers. As all five of them can tell you, I do stay in touch.

Wilderness Paperwork

Completing final steps before taking the first step.

After some hurry-up-and-wait, I received my official backcountry permit for Glacier National Park. I am officially permitted to hike in the woods. I even had to take a test on bear safety.

If you’ve been to the Boundary Waters and sat through the bear video, you’ll appreciate the order of magnitude here. For example, I recall the Boundary Waters instructions were to yell, bang pots, and throw stuff at any bear in camp. Here, you are supposed to stop, speak firmly, walk backwards, and not look the bear in the eye. And whatever you do, don’t run.

However, if this fails to avoid an encounter, you are supposed to use bear spray and/or play dead while laying on your stomach with your hands clasped behind your head, presumably to protect vital organs. Of course, the video says if the bear is deliberately attacking, not just startled, you should fight with sticks and rocks or climb a tree.

I wanted that permit very much, so I kept my mouth shut. Still, I was left a bit confused. For example, who penned the scientific study on the importance of avoiding eye contact to prevent mauling? Were volunteers divided into two groups of Direct Stare and Averted Eyes and then put in the pathway of a grizzly? What was the sample size? Another question I had was discerning between whether I was being attacked or just encountering a startled bear. I’m sure there are some people adept at quickly discerning the difference, but personally, I still need a few seconds to decide between paper or plastic bags and indoor or outdoor seating. Lastly, regarding the old playing dead thing; have these people not watched Revenant?

Please don’t think I am disrespectful of the National Park Service. They are trying to preserve and administer access to some of the world’s treasures. Permit systems control volumes, track hikers, and increase safety for people and animals.

Glacier National Park is stunning. I still have not seen the tops of most peaks due to storm clouds. But what I have seen is amazing. Just this afternoon I enjoyed a five mile walk in sun, rain, and snow.

I take a shuttle van to the Canadian border tomorrow and start walking south in the afternoon. Fitting my current physical condition, I am going to hike the Belly River. Most likely I will not be able to post for two days until I approach another park lodge.

Until then, I hope you stay safe and either avert your eyes or attack.

The Train

I finally left the Twin Cities on the 10:30 pm Amtrak. I had not been on Amtrak since living on the east coast. Train travel has some merits. It is interesting to watch the country change and unfurl. Heading fron the midwest to Rockies, the soils grow thinner, the land use more scattered, and making a living gets harder. On the other hand, some train travel situations are not so good. Since I boarded at night, everyone in my car was sleeping. I dubbed it Clan Snorton based on the amount of snoring. While I generally consider myself an above average snorer, I was totally outclassed. Plus, there were a couple chatterboxes on board. (Tip: bring earbuds or headphones on train.)

One other note about arriving at Glacier National Park by train is the intimidating size of the mountains as you approach. You go from rolling grasslands to huge mountains jutting straight up, making you wonder what you have signed up for….