October 22nd
Eager to get past this section and resupply, I cruised early. For a while I must’ve been following a skunk. His odor was there on the trail for several hundred feet. I was thankful I have not had a skunk visit me at night.
Eventually, the trail joined a more commonly used route that took visitors from the popular Gila Cliff Dwelling National Monument over to the Middle Fork of the Gila. I encountered some day hikers. One was a group of ladies ranging from their 50s to 70s and they were making good time. Very inspiring, especially since this section of trail trail is quite rocky.
Once down to the paved road, I made great time. I saw some animals crossing the road up ahead. As I drew near, it was clear they were javelinas. Most just bolted, barely visible in the high grass. However, a few stopped to watch me and I took some pictures. I could see they were gorging on some type of wild watermelon or gourd that grew alongside the road.
Later, I found a couple different tarantulas. It was interesting to see how they reacted once they sensed my presence. Apparently they do not like their picture taken. They raise up their front legs and make themselves look much bigger. The ones in this area had a section of their body which was a soft brown color.
I eventually reached Doc Campbell’s trading post. It is an eclectic collection of foods, books, “local” artwork and sundries. The guy who runs it wore a denim shirt and camo pants. He was fairly grumpy and not particularly glad to see me, a customer. I retrieved my box and got some junk food. He charges hikers $3.00 per box to hold them. However, he wanted me to pay cash so neither of us would pay sales tax as this was a service as opposed to the sale of goods. He was tight with a nickel. Also, very strict about other matters such as what to do with my empty resupply box and the correct way to microwave a burrito (70 seconds on high with the wrapper torn just so). He had a huge Trump for President banner proudly displayed in his store. For a guy whose business was so dependent on a federally subsidized park and visitor center as the sole point of the traffic on his road, it struck me as a little odd he was so pro-Trump. But, I have not followed the presidential race too much and perhaps Trump is different.
I resupplied, charged my electronics, and got some water. On the spot, I decided to road walk to Silver City rather than go back to to hike the Gila (combined Middle and West Forks now) for another 20 miles. I don’t know if it is the fact I am 4 months into the trip, but the charm of more river crossings failed to work on me. I’d rather walk along a state highway.
In fact, it was not that bad from a traffic perspective. The only thing on the first section was the Gila Cliff Dwellings and visitation was probably down this time of year. Aside from traffic, the first five miles were tough because I started around 1:00 on a hot day and it was all uphill. I complain about backpacking hills being steep sometimes, but at least they get it over with quickly. This road rose steadily for five miles.
I came across an interesting contrast. There was one roadside informational display. The Forest Service had spent some money to create informational signs explaining that forest fires were a good thing, critical to maintaining the health of the ponderosa forest. Suppressing fires let the under story plants grow, choking out native species. Moreover, animals, I was assured, could escape fires and were thus not likely to be harmed. In short, the various kiosks convinced me fires were a necessary thing.
However, there are many many Forest Service signs, some just a mile down the road, admonishing against fires, warning that fires kill, and to be extra diligent. So, I was a little confused. If fires are so good, why all the warning signs? I guess that lightning creates healthy organic fires and people create unhealthy fires.
I found in the Handbook there was a tavern / inn down the road where I might purchase a meal and get a room. I picked up my pace hoping to reach it before dark. On the lightly traveled road, I was averaging about four miles per hour. When I got there, it was closed for the season.
Disappointed, I made my way uphill. I was also disappointed to see that I was once again in private property. However, one of my maps indicated there was public land once I reached the top of the hill. As the sun set, I did reach the top of the hill, the barbed wire stopped, and I saw forest service signage. I pulled in to a short forest service road that appeared to have been camped in before. I was breaking one of my cardinal rules: never camp by a road or campground on a Friday or Saturday night. But it was dark and there had been little traffic on highway 15.
After I pitched my tent, I was surprised to see I was getting attacked by mosquitoes. They were the first I had seen since Wyoming. I just shooed them away.
As I started to fall asleep, somewhere in the distance a dog started barking. And kept barking. Continuously. It was one of those annoying sounds that I should’ve been able to ignore, but once I heard it I could not unhear it. Eventually I dozed off, but every time I woke up it was still barking. Neighbors must have the patience of Job.
To prove my rule, about 3:00 in the morning, I heard some young women cackling about 20 feet from my tent. They were from a car that had pulled over so they could pee. Given their speech and the time, I suspect they shut whatever bar down and were driving home and decided to relieve themselves. Upon finishing their task, they sat in their car and idled for another 15 minutes. I was tempted to walk up to the side and stick my big furry homeless man face in their window on this deserted road, but I figured New Mexico is a gun friendly state and they were ripped.
Finally, they drove off. The dog stopped barking. I slept really well from 3:30 to 4:30.
backpacking over the hill 