August 28th
The morning was spent hopscotching a trail open to motorcycles. Some trails are quite popular with motorcycle enthusiasts and they have two results. First is a convex tire repeatedly ridden over dirt creates a deeply rutted concave trail which the human foot is not meant to walk upon. Second is to churn up all kinds of rocks making each step an adventure.
Nevertheless, the trail followed a small stream, Trout Creek, uphill until the headwaters were passed. Then, a serious uphill climb.
I came to the turn for official trail and it looked sketchy. In some places on the CDT there is a vicious cycle of low usage leading to low maintenance leading to low usage, etc. Instead, I took an alternate up the Illinois River. At first it was a gravel road with grazing cattle and then a fairly decent trail.
As per usual in my case, clouds thickened and drizzle started. In case I have not elaborated on it before, there are a few hassles with rain and backpacking. First, you want to avoid stopping and taking off your backpack. Next, if you haven’t guessed right, your weather gear (insulation and water resistance are the two main ones) is probaby buried in your pack. Lastly, it is putting on and adjusting your clothing and regaining the momentum of the trail.
Thus, my umbrella was not enough for the increasingly stronger drizzle and slowly dropping temperatures. I added insulation and my rain pants and forged up to Bowen Pass, 11,475 feet, where my alternate rejoined the official CDT.
The pass was above treeline. As I descended into the valley I spotted a bull moose feeding in a clump of shrubs. This was all the more interesting because I could plainly see where the trail went directly through those same shrubs, not 15 feet from the bull. As I went down another set of switchbacks, I saw there was another moose, without antlers, also feeding in the same island of vegetation.
This didn’t bode well as a bull with a cow might get defensive. Several people on the trail had said moose were more dangerous than bears. Still, I believed that all previous moose I encountered ran when they saw a human. Thus, I hoped to approach the moose and get some good video as it saw me and ran off.
The angle of the trail relative to the shrubbery, plus the wind direction, let me get close to the feeding bull. Further away, I could not see the other moose. When I could see the antlers, I pulled out the camera, started the video function, and stood up straight hoping to get a clear focus before the bull ran off in fear of me, the mighty apex predator. Well, 20 feet away the bull was extremely unimpressed by me. He continued eating. It was strange to have eye contact with a large, wild animal.
I tried to quickly determine if this was good or bad. He could charge forward in about 10 steps and deliver some hurt. I, on the other hand, was pretty much confined to a thin trail chopped through thick shrubbery. I decided this was bad and kept talking and walking. Much to my relief, he stayed put as I passed. Much, much more to my surprise were the three other moose that suddenly stood up 15 feet away to see what was going on.
“This is not good.” I am not sure why saying this out loud was helpful, but I did it anyways. Although I now had five moose all looking at me, I was slightly relieved to note these three were young males, only one with a small set of antlers.I could tell they were torn between staying or fleeing. I was definitely into fleeing.
As I edged past, I was amazed to see the biggest bull lounging on the ground. This guy was big, even laying down. I had thought moose were solitary creatures, but now l had six moose all in one place.
The big guy laying down gave me a look that clearly conveyed “Don’t make me stand up!” I had to get a picture so I took the chance of a few snaps. He looked pretty mad now. An inventory of quickly accessible defensive weapons available to me only came up with an umbrella.
Talking and walking smoothly, I did slide by and finally I started to shake a little. I had just walked past over a literal ton of bull moose. Wow.
Although a memorable experience, I had to focus on the rain which had increased in intensity. Since the trail followed a creek downhill, the hiking was fast. After several miles, I ran into three young ladies out for a day hike. They mentioned they worked at the Shadow Cliff Hostel in Grand Lakes, which is where my resupply package awaited. I originally planned on one more night in the woods. However, after chatting with them, I guessed that I could push all the way to the hostel. Once again, Helen came through and got me a room for the night.
I high tailed it down the trail. For the most part, the trail was now indistinguishable from a creek. I reached the highway. I could walk the highway to town or follow the official CDT. I chose the latter and regretted it. Sweeping curves that just ended up back at the highway.
As the rain stopped, I eventually walked into town. I ate some dinner at a restaurant. The waitress was impressed that I wolfed down two entrees, a full rack of ribs plus a chicken burrito.
Through the dark town, I made my way to Shadow Cliff. I met Qtip there which was great. I grabbed my sheets, made my bed, and went to sleep.
backpacking over the hill 